Our 17-day South Korea trip joined Seoul's palaces, hanok neighbourhoods and high-energy city life with Busan's coastline. The places we visited felt clean, safe and well connected, and the KTX made the transfer between the two cities straightforward. Travelling with a three-year-old still brought real friction. Baby-changing facilities were hard to find in the cafes and restaurants we used, and vegetarian meals required more advance research than we expected. This guide keeps those trade-offs alongside the highlights, itinerary and costs we recorded in May 2024.
By the Three Suitcases family, based on our May 2024 trip
Three Suitcases
threesuitcases.com/destinations/south-korea/seoul-busan
When we went
May 2024
Duration
17 days
Child's age
3 years old
Family rating
★★★★½ (4.5/5)
Cost level
£££ Expensive
Family total
£7,000
Before you go
Money & language
Currency
Korean Won (KRW)
Cards are accepted almost everywhere. Carry small cash for street food and traditional markets.
Tipping
Not expected
Service staff do not generally expect a tip. Follow any clearly stated service charge or venue guidance.
Language
Korean
English signage is common in major visitor areas, but a translation app is useful. Papago is widely used for Korean.
Getting in & around
Visa
Not required for stays up to 90 days
British nationals travelling visa-free are temporarily exempt from K-ETA until 31 December 2026. Check the official entry rules again before booking.
UK entry adviceConnectivity
Widely available mobile data and public Wi-Fi
eSIM, local SIM, and pocket Wi-Fi options are available. Check device compatibility and current airport collection options before travel.
Power
Type C / F (European two-pin, 220V)
Same round two-pin as much of mainland Europe. UK visitors need a travel adapter.
On the ground
Tap water
Safe but locals prefer filtered
Technically safe, but most Koreans drink filtered or bottled water. Hotels usually provide bottled water.
Food to try
Bibimbap, tteokbokki, Korean BBQ, kimchi jjigae, hotteok
Vegetable-looking dishes can still contain meat, seafood, or fish-based stock. Our experience was much easier when we chose vegetarian restaurants in advance and carried a translated diet note.
Official vegetarian guideUseful phrases
Gamsa-hamnida (thank you), Annyeonghaseyo (hello)
Ne (yes), Aniyo (no), Eolmayeyo? (how much?), Juseyo (please give me). Download Papago or Naver Dictionary, they work far better than Google Translate for Korean.
Our Trip
Seventeen days across Seoul and Busan with our three-year-old, including the route we followed, our £7,000 family total, the toddler logistics that caught us out, vegetarian-food challenges, favourite days and what we would plan differently.
The honest verdict
What we loved
Where the friction was
Day by day
Went to the airport from home via pre-booked taxi. Our son had some coffee at the airport and was super excited about the adventure ahead. We flew Asiana Airlines overnight, which turned out to be a great choice for a family with a toddler, great food and genuine Asian hospitality that made the long flight feel manageable.
Arrived in Seoul in the evening after the overnight flight. The city felt modern and efficient immediately, which helped us settle. Took a taxi to Nine Tree by Parnas in Myeongdong, checked in, and just relaxed. Being in Myeongdong meant we could absorb jet lag, start late, come back easily, and still feel like we were in the middle of things.
Pick up a prepaid T-money card and grab the AREX express to central Seoul in one booking.
Our first proper day was a mix of wandering and adjusting. We explored Myeongdong, ducked in and out of shops, found food where we could, and got a feel for the city. The shopping streets are buzzing with energy, street food stalls everywhere, and our son loved watching all the activity. It was not the most ambitious part of the itinerary, but it was the right way to land.
Bongeunsa Temple and the Banpo Bridge area were the first reminder that Seoul could switch mood completely depending on where you went. Bongeunsa at night had the kind of atmosphere that makes you slow down without meaning to. The lanterns, the lighting, and the stillness made it feel very different from the busier parts of the city. Each spot had something unique to offer, and the Banpo Bridge area was beautiful too.
Lotte World was one of the easiest family wins of the whole trip. With a toddler, bad weather or overstimulation can sink a day quickly. Lotte World did the opposite. Completely indoor and an amazing setup, it gave us an all-weather, high-energy day where there was something for all ages and enough spectacle to keep everyone entertained. The hot air balloon ride was the standout, along with many other rides. Would highly recommend.
Discounted one-day pass; beats the gate price and you scan a QR at the turnstile.
If we had to choose one day that justified the trip on its own, it would be this one. We rented traditional Korean hanbok and had a private family photoshoot at Gyeongbokgung Palace. It could easily have felt staged or awkward, but it did not. The palace buildings, open courtyards, the pond reflections, and the colours of the hanbok against the stone and wood made it genuinely special. After that, Bukchon Hanok Village gave us narrow streets, rooflines, hills, and views across the city. We also hiked part of the Namsan section of the Seoul city wall.
We all dressed in traditional hanbok and wandered through Gyeongbokgung, posing by the Geunjeongmun gate and the Gyeonghoeru pavilion reflecting across its pond. One of the most memorable afternoons of the whole trip.
Narrow sunlit alleys of traditional hanok roofs, craft shops and lantern hangings, with pink flowers draped over the walls. Peaceful and beautifully photogenic, with plenty of shaded corners for the toddler.
Nami Island was absolutely worth the effort. The ferry ride over, with mountains reflecting in the calm lake, set the tone. The island itself is beautiful for walking with a toddler, with wide tree-lined paths and plenty of space to explore at a slower pace than the city. We paired it with Alpaca World, which made the day long, but also made it feel like a genuine family day rather than a parent-led sightseeing day. Our son loved it.
The little ferry to Nami Island crosses calm water surrounded by tree-covered mountains. Quiet, scenic and a welcome break from the Seoul bustle.
If you are combining with Nami Island, Klook has a Seoul-based bundled shuttle that is cheaper than DIY.
Our second photoshoot day, this time in the trendy Yeonnam and Seogyo-dong neighbourhoods. Instead of palaces and traditional dress, it gave us urban colour, street art, playful roads, cafes, and a more casual side of Seoul. We explored the vibrant streets, posed on colourful road markings, walked along old train tracks, and visited stylish cafes. The fact that the two shoots felt so different from each other made both of them more worth doing.
Brick alleys, gradient cafe walls and Korean pedestrian-crossing street art everywhere you look. Yeonnam-dong at its easygoing best, and surprisingly walkable with a toddler.
A trendy Seoul neighbourhood stitched around an elevated walkway and repurposed train tracks, with modern cafes and little urban parks tucked between. Easy afternoon wandering.
Seoul Forest was exactly the sort of place you need in the middle of a longer trip with a small child: space, greenery, lower stakes, and no pressure to optimise every hour. We also wandered around Myeongdong again, which had become our familiar base. A relaxing day that helped the trip feel sustainable rather than a constant sprint between sights.
Back to Myeongdong for more exploring and found Vegan Kitchen for a proper vegetarian meal, which was a relief after days of limited options. The highlight was the late night walk along Cheonggyecheon stream. It gave us one of those simple travel memories that stays with you, just the three of us walking beside the water while the city carried on above us. The lanterns, the mist over the stream, and the reflections on the water made it one of the most atmospheric moments of the whole Seoul section.
A magical night-time stroll along Cheonggyecheon with rows of colourful lanterns overhead, gentle mist rising off the water and bright reflections in the stream. Easily the most atmospheric walk we did in Seoul.
Travel day from Seoul to Busan on the KTX high-speed train. The journey itself was smooth and efficient, but this was also the day of the low point of the trip. Other passengers complained about our child making noise and we were asked to leave the compartment, even though we were speaking quietly. It was one incident, not the whole country, but it stung. Checked into the hotel in the Bujeon area and settled in for the Busan leg.
First full day exploring Busan, and it changed the feel of the trip at exactly the right moment. After a long Seoul stretch, the coastline, the sea air, and the wider views made everything feel more open. We visited the famous Haeundae beach area and took in the stunning views of Gwangan Bridge. It felt easier to slow down here. Settled into the Arban Hotel in the Bujeon area.
A wide curving sandy beach ringed by high-rises, seen both from street level and from the glass-floor observation deck above. Our toddler loved lying on the glass and looking straight down to the coastline.
From the top of Busan X the Sky, a sweeping panorama of the city meeting the sea, plus a playful interactive starry-night wall where visitors write their own glowing messages. A reliable rainy-day backup we all enjoyed.
Explored the seaside of Busan, taking in the harbour and coastal areas. The highlight was the SEA LIFE Busan Aquarium, which turned out to be more than a rainy-day fallback. Watching our toddler press up against the tanks, stare at the fish, and sit inside the blue-lit tunnel gave us some of the best family photos of the Busan section. Beautiful views of the ocean and the hillside cityscape from the waterfront.
Rows of glowing jellyfish tanks in blue, pink and purple that feel more like an art installation than an aquarium. Dim, quiet, stroller-friendly and utterly mesmerising for a small child.
Gamcheon Culture Village was one of the most photogenic parts of Busan, and it really is as colourful as people say. It was less relaxed with a buggy than the photographs suggest, but still worth visiting. We also saw the dramatic Sunrise Rock and explored more of the Gwangan Bridge area and coastline. The variety of Busan kept surprising us.
Rainbow-coloured houses cascading down a steep Busan hillside, with playful murals around every corner, from a Little Prince to a cheeky K-pop one. The climb is steep but there are photo spots, shops and benches at every level.
Day trip from Busan to the ancient capital Gyeongju to visit the famous Bulguksa Temple. This gave us a completely different day again. The temple and the wider historical atmosphere made it one of the strongest cultural days of the trip. Our son wore hanbok again for the visit, and the traditional architecture surrounded by purple irises in bloom was stunning. A beautiful journey through Korean history and culture.
Bulguksa's sunlit courtyards are strung with rows of red and rainbow lanterns, with painted guardian figures flanking the entrance and beautifully decorated wooden halls. Our toddler wore a lime-green hanbok and had a ball running around.
Travel day heading back from Busan to Seoul on the KTX. A long journey but time to reflect on the amazing Busan leg of the trip. If Seoul was the high-energy heart of the itinerary, Busan was the part that stopped the trip from becoming too intense. Back to our familiar Myeongdong base for the last night.
Final day. Headed to Incheon Airport for the flight home. An emotional goodbye to an incredible trip. South Korea gave us far more than the difficult moments took away. It was beautiful, distinctive, safe-feeling, and full of variety. We would go back with better preparation for food and toddler logistics, but we would go back.
Tips for families
Treat the first Seoul days as jet-lag recovery rather than a packed checklist.
Save baby-changing locations when you find them and carry a complete changing kit.
Research vegetarian restaurants before each neighbourhood day and carry a translated note explaining what you do not eat.
Choose a central base; Myeongdong let us start late and return easily.
Keep at least one slower park or neighbourhood day every few days.
Recheck entry rules, opening hours and transport details with official sources before booking.
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